THIS Wiltshire hotel is rumoured to be the oldest in England
“You know we’re staying in the oldest hotel in the country tonight, right?” my partner Rich said to me as we drove north on the M5.
Rich has recently published a book, Along the Borders, and he’d been invited to Malmesbury to give a book talk – I was his plus one. And the Malmesbury Civic Trust had very kindly booked us into one of the most historically significant hotels in the country!
The Old Bell Hotel in Malmesbury is a building that has welcomed guests for more than 800 years.
Situated directly beside Malmesbury Abbey in the heart of Wiltshire’s oldest borough, The Old Bell Hotel traces its origins back to 1220, when Abbot Loring commissioned a hostelry for visiting dignitaries travelling to the abbey.
And today, it lays claim to being England’s oldest hotel!
The history of The Old Bell Hotel
To understand The Old Bell, it helps to understand Malmesbury itself.
Long before the hotel existed, this hilltop town was one of the most important religious centres in Anglo-Saxon England. Malmesbury Abbey was founded around AD 676 by Aldhelm, a scholar, poet and nephew of King Ine of Wessex.
Over the following centuries, the abbey became one of Europe’s leading centres of learning and housed what was reportedly the second-largest library on the continent.
The town grew around the abbey, and in AD 939, King Athelstan, regarded as the first King of England, was buried there following his death in Gloucester.
The abbey also witnessed one of England’s most unusual historical events. In the early 11th century, a monk named Eilmer attempted human flight by attaching wings to his body and launching himself from one of the towers. Remarkably, he reportedly glided more than 200 yards before crash-landing and breaking both legs.
By the early 13th century, Malmesbury Abbey attracted scholars, clergy and important visitors from across England. To accommodate these guests, Abbot Loring ordered the construction of a hostelry beside the abbey in 1220. That building evolved into today’s Old Bell Hotel.
Walking through the hotel today, traces of its long history appear throughout the property. The architecture reflects centuries of additions and alterations, and features such as the hooded stone fireplace in the bar date back to the hotel’s earliest years.
The building has survived the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the English Civil War, Victorian expansion, two world wars and the ups and downs of modern tourism – making it one of the most interesting hotels in the country!
First impressions
Stepping through the front door, we were greeted with a glass of prosecco before settling into the bar area. The first thing that caught my attention was an enormous giraffe head mounted on the wall – I don’t think it was real…
Current owners Kim and Whit Hanks purchased the hotel in 2021 and have undertaken extensive refurbishment works. Interestingly, their family has deep roots in Malmesbury stretching back centuries, and after acquiring the hotel they discovered records showing that members of the Hanks family had previously owned part of the property during the 19th century.
On the Friday evening of our stay, the bar was lively with both guests and locals; but there’s plenty of room to spread out in the various lounges and restaurant space. In fact, one of my favourite parts of the hotel was simply wandering between rooms and looking at the collection of antiques curiosities displayed throughout the building, largely collected in modern times by the Hankses!
Our room
As you might expect from a hotel occupying an 800-year-old building, no two rooms are identical.
Our room wasn’t particularly large, and given we’re used to our super king sized bed, the small double was a little cosy! But such are the tribulations of turning an 800 year old building into a hotel, I guess!
Despite the property being historic, there were plenty of mod-cons in the room. We had a Dyson hairdryer (of course, being in Malmesbury – Dyson headquarters are located just outside the town). The shower was excellent, with strong water pressure and modern fittings. We were also provided with shortbread biscuits alongside tea and coffee-making facilities.
Dinner at The Old Bell
Dinner is served across several interconnected spaces within the hotel.
Guests can dine in the more informal bar area or continue through to the restaurant. Both spaces continue the historic theme seen throughout the rest of the property, with exposed features, antiques and memorabilia decorating the walls.
I started with a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – always my preferred wine order – before ordering the gnocchi.
The gnocchi was well cooked and full of flavour, but it was a tiny portion (as is often the case with gnocchi). I wouldn’t recommend ordering just this if you’re hungry!
My partner chose the sea bass and enjoyed it, although he was surprised that it wasn’t accompanied by potatoes.
The burgers and fish and chips appeared considerably more substantial, so these may be better options if you’re particularly hungry!
Later that evening, we returned to the bar for drinks – it’s even cosier after darkness falls, and they have an extensive tea menu for those who don’t want an alcoholic nightcap. ,
Breakfast
Breakfast was one of the highlights of the stay.
The hotel combines a buffet selection with an à la carte menu. The buffet included pastries, fruit and continental breakfast items, while cooked dishes could be ordered separately.
I chose avocado on toast and made a few modifications to the dish without any issues. It was excellent, as was the barista-made coffee (oat cap!) that accompanied it.
After the slightly underwhelming portion size at dinner, breakfast set us up well for the day ahead!
Exploring Malmesbury from the hotel
The Old Bell sits directly beside Malmesbury Abbey, and before breakfast, I headed out for a run around town. Malmesbury is compact enough to explore on foot, but it packs a remarkable amount of history into its streets!
Beyond the abbey itself, you can explore independent shops along the High Street, walk beside the River Avon and visit the Athelstan Museum, which tells the story of the town’s Anglo-Saxon origins and royal connections.
The hotel also makes an excellent base for exploring nearby Lacock, Castle Combe and the southern Cotswolds.
Parking and practical information
Parking is available behind the hotel on a first-come, first-served basis.
If these spaces are full, guests will need to use one of the town’s long-stay car parks.
Address: Abbey Row, Malmesbury SN16 0BW
Phone: 01666 822344
