The glorious Cornwall-Devon train that barely anyone takes
The 10.28 am departure from Plymouth trundled past naval dockyards and housing estates until I saw the sun glinting off the fast-flowing waters of the River Tamar. As we crossed under the concrete spans of the Tamar Bridge, I saw the forested sides of the Tamar Valley stretching northwards.
I sat back and enjoyed glorious views as the Tamar Valley Line plodded along the river bank. This railway runs for just 15 miles, connecting Plymouth in the south to the Cornish town of Gunnislake in the Upper Tamar Valley, but it’s easily one of the most scenic trainlines in the southwest.
Criss-crossing the Devon and Cornwall border as it traverses the wide banks of the River Tamar, this rural branch of the Great Western Railway is one of the best ways to explore the Tamar Valley. If you’re planning a rail escape, then keep reading, as we explain how to visit the Tamar Valley by train.
What and where is the Tamar Valley Line?
The Tamar Valley Line is a short but historic railway route which runs between Plymouth, in Devon and Gunnislake, in Cornwall. For much of its scenic 15 mile route, it follows the course of the River Tamar, the ancient boundary between Celtic Kernow and Anglo-Saxon Devon.
I love how the route is steeped in local industrial history. The line evolved from late 19th century railways built to connect the Tamar Valley’s copper mines and quarries (the region is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape), while the first passenger service, opened in 1890, linked Plymouth to the Bere Peninsula.
When the Calstock Viaduct – a magnificent work of Edwardian engineering, reaching a height of 37 metres – opened in 1907, the railway bridged the River Tamar and was extended north to Gunnislake, where it now terminates.
At its height, the Tamar Valley was home to a complex network of rural and industrial branch lines, but most of these closed in the 20th century. The Plymouth–Gunnislake section survived the Beeching cuts of the 1960s, however, after local campaigns demonstrated its importance for the Tamar Valley’s isolated rural communities.
Today, there’s a grand total of 11 stations on the Tamar Valley Line, including popular stops like Bere Alston and Calstock. It’s largely run as a community rail service, with small diesel units plying the tracks and volunteer groups upkeeping the stations.
How to take the Tamar Valley Line
The Tamar Valley Line begins its journey in Plymouth. When I’ve taken the train before, there’s normally been two, and no more than three carriages on the route. You can purchase tickets on the Great Western Railway App, at Plymouth Station, or from the on-board conductors.
Start your journey in Plymouth, and for £8.30, a day return ticket to Gunnislake allows you to hop on and off the railway line as you explore the Tamar Valley by rail and foot. If you’re travelling on other lines, a Devon Day Ranger ticket costs £17 and allows unlimited travel on GWR services within the county.
If you’re staying in Plymouth, you can also catch the train from stations at Devonport, Dockyard, Keyham and St Budeaux (Victoria Road and Ferry Road) before the line crosses under the Tamar Bridge, and continues its journey north into the valley.
Although the line serves as a lifeline to rural communities in the Tamar Valley, it’s still rather infrequent, so check the live timetables on GWR’s website to plan your trip in advance. The first train typically departs Plymouth as early as 4.57 am, but from then on, only runs every 2 hours each way. Total journey time between Plymouth and Gunnislake is 45 minutes.
Where to stop on the Tamar Valley Line
With a little planning and patience, the train is an excellent way to combine a scenic train ride with a few hikes in the Tamar Valley. On one trip, for example, I took the train to Bere Ferrers, walked to Bere Alston and then caught the train onwards to Calstock. After a pint and pasty at the Tamar Inn, it was then time to catch the return train to Plymouth.
Here are my top stops on the Tamar Valley Line:
The Bere Peninsula
The Bere Peninsula, formed by the convergence of the River Tamar and the River Tavy, is where the broad reaches of the Tamar Valley really begin outside of Plymouth.
There are 2 stations on the Bere Peninsula. The first is Bere Ferrers, where you can stroll through the small village and down to the banks of the River Tavy. From Bere Ferrers, you can follow the route of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail north to the next station at Bere Alston.
It’s a meandering walk of around 7 miles, following the River Tamar, then looping under the Calstock Viaduct. Another option is to alight directly at Bere Alston, then walk the 5-mile Bere Alston Circular Walk from/to the station.
For longer walks, you can now use the recently revived Calstock Ferry over the River Tamar, which saves you backtracking to Bere Alston to take the train over the viaduct.
Calstock
Calstock is the first stop on the Cornish side of the River Tamar. This is one of my favourite train journeys in the South West, because you cross the expansive archways of the Calstock Viaduct to reach the sleepy riverside village.
The Calstock Viaduct is a highlight of the Tamar Valley Line. An engineering marvel spanning the River Tamar, you’ll have sweeping views as you trundle across its 37-metre high archways. The viaduct dates back to 1907, and has been an immovable feature of the Tamar Valley’s already scenic landscapes ever since.
Alight in Calstock, and you can visit art galleries and riverside inns (try the Tamar Inn) before meandering upstream along the river’s banks to derelict engine houses and mine shafts. Head downstream, past Calstock’s quays and ramshackle piers, and you can visit Cotehele House, a National Trust property built by the Edgcumbe family in the late 15th century.
Gunnislake
A twenty minute train ride north from Calstock brings you to Gunnislake, the terminus of the Tamar Valley Line. Perched on the Cornish bank of the River Tamar, the village itself sits around ¾ of a mile (downhill, if you’ve just arrived) from the station.
Gunnislake is the gateway to the best sections of the Tamar Valley’s UNESCO World Heritage listed Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape.
You’ll find abandoned mine shafts and ruined engine houses on your walk from the station, and the Tamar Valley AONB Centre can tell you more about the local history.
Walk over the River Tamar, and you’ll come to the Tamar Trails Centre. A hub of local adventure activities – including archery and kayaking – the centre is the focal point for the Tamar Trails, a 15 mile network of walking trails extending across the countryside, and along the river.
Once your journey has come to a close, simply hop back on the train and enjoy the scenic ride before you return to Plymouth.
